Black Ivy: A Revolt In Style
A fine new addition to my library looks at the way in which black men in the USA during the 1960s adopted and adapted Ivy League style for themselves.
A great Ivy League outfit – raised seam wool jacket, tab collar shirt, medallion pattern tie – photographed by Bob Adelman.
The uniform of white privilege became the uniform of Civil Rights campaigners.
Author and activitist James Baldwin in a fabulous sheepskin coat over a dark suit, white shirt, slim tie and some impressive nubuck winter boots. Photograph by Steve Shapiro/Corbis via Getty Images.
Prominent politicians, acedemics, artists, musicians, sportsmen and regular guys are featured in the beautifully illustrated “Black Ivy: A Revolt In Style” by Jason Jules and Graham Marsh.
Miles Davis, the cover star of the book, in 1956 looking as cool as always while mixing colours and patterns. Photograph by Marvin Koner/Corbis via Getty Images.
All aspects of Ivy are covered and the images from around 60 years ago still look so damned good.
Novelist Ralph Ellison in a trenchcoat and neat hat. Photograph by David Gahr / Getty Images.
Alex Haley, author of “Roots”, in cool spectacles and superb corduroy jacket. Photograph by Fred Mott/Getty Images.
Photographer Gordon Parks photographed in the mid-1960s by Eve Arnold for Magnum Photos. What a cool dude!
Possibly my favourite image is this one of Duke Ellington’s arranger Billy Strayhorn, who makes me want a seersucker suit.
Jazz arranger Billy Strayhorn shot by Steve Schapiro/Corbis via Getty Images.
While I am personally drawn to the tailoring of the Ivy Look – even though it is very softly tailored – the casualwear looks are very desirable as well.
Looks that still look great today (although the shoes need a polish!). Photograph by Bill Ray/the LIFE Picture Collection/Shutterstock.
Louis Cousins, one of the first black students to attend previously all-white schools in Norfolk, Virginia in 1959. Note the piped pocket outline on his windcheater. Photograph by Ed Clark/The LIFE Premium Collection via Getty Images.
Tennis legend Arthur Ashe in a Fred Perry polo. Photograph by John G Zimmerman Archive.
The 224-page hardback book is published by Reel Art Press (RAP), which can always be relied upon for a high-quality job. “Black Ivy” is a great companion volume to “Hollywood and The Ivy Look”, published by RAP in 2011.
I can also wholeheartedly recommend other books co-produced by Graham Marsh, especially the ones on the art of Blue Note record sleeves.
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