The Musgrave Manifesto
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Maintaining the Premium bonds
Wednesday, January 16th, 2013
The Premium show in Berlin celebrates its 10th anniversary this season. I was there for its debut in a disused U-bahn station beneath Potsdamer Platz in Berlin. Well done to Anita Tillman and Norbert Tillman, the creators and business partners of this excellent show, for helping make Berlin a vital fashion destination. (NB Despite their surnames, A & N are not married or even related, but they are a great team).
British brands are realising that Premium is a superb platform from which to launch into the potentially lucrative German-speaking markets, so I was delighted to see that Dapper Dan, Michael Whitby-Grubb, manning the Penrose London stand for its debut at Premium. www.penrose-london.com
I am surprised that more smart British buyers don’t check out Premium (which despite my focus, is primarily a womenswear show). So I was very pleased to see my indie buyer pals Matthew Hansford from Hansfords of Chichester and Gary Culver from Frederick L Mabb in Dorchester out and about in what can only be described as complementary outfits. Who says Brits can’t handle colour?
Berlin Fashion Week is officially Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, so I was not surprised to see this bling-mobile on show outside Premium. At least it would be easy to spot in the Lidl or Aldi car park…
Denham Five Live
Tuesday, January 15th, 2013
Englishman-in-Amsterdam Jason Denham has decided to celebrate the fifth anniversary of his Denham the Jeanmaker brand with a lavish book that in part celebrates five of his denim mentors and inspirations – Adriano Goldschmied, Renzo Rosso, François Girbaud, Nigel Cabourn and Karl-Heinz Müller.
The last three mentioned turned up for a communal book signing at the new 14oz store on Kurfürfstendamm, where Mijnheer Denham was in much demand by the snappers.
Once a few words had been said, Jason and his inspirational trio scribbled their monikers in the handsome book, proceeds from which will go to charity. www.denhamthejeanmaker.com
At the new 14oz flagship
Tuesday, January 15th, 2013
On Tuesday, the first night of Bread&Butter, the fashion in-crowd headed to the mightily impressive 14oz store at Kurfürstendamm 193-194. The street is the most exclusive retail thoroughfare in Berlin and Karl-Heinz Müller, boss of Bread&Butter and owner of 14oz, has created a superb emporium on the site of the former “Haus Cumberland” for his second 14oz store in the city. This is confident retailing at its best.
There were chums a-plenty for me to rabbit with, including designer Christopher Raeburn, who has just picked up the creative reins at Victorinox (the Swiss Army knife and fashion people – Go Chris!) and Raoul Shah, marketing supremo at Exposure. Yes, it was a bit of a check fest wasn’t it? Under my Woolrich parka I am wearing a Woolrich cotton shirt and a Johnstons Cashmere crewneck sweater.
Middlesbrough’s finest, Steve Cochrane of Psyche, did a good impression of Little Red Riding Hood, while Ryan Cooper-Brown of Exposure avoided the camera’s gaze.
Kevin Stone, marketing guru for Baracuta and much besides, Miles Gray, a man who does not know the meaning of “retirement”, and Tommy Hilfiger’s David Pyne were among the Brits in attendance. (Well, there was free drink on offer…)
The extraordinary U-shaped store is well worth a closer look. www.14oz-berlin.com
Hitting the Big Time
Tuesday, January 15th, 2013
The L.O.C.K. section at Bread&Butter is always a happy hunting ground for me to find the curious and the desirable. Among the Labels of Common Kin that caught my eye this season was Laco, a German watch manufacturer based in Pforzheim, in Baden-Württemberg, southwest Germany. This fabulous watch is a genuine WW2 specimen that was issued to Luftwaffe aircrew, who wore it on the outside of their sleeves. Its dial is a massive 55mm in diameter, which is just over 2ins.
Laco’s modern version, which has a modest 36mm dial, is the Baumuster B or Type B. (The Type A Luftwaffe watch did not have the central mini-dial.) Have a look at the current range on www.laco.de
Appropriately enough, Bread&Butter’s marketing slogan this season is Big Time…
Hello from Berlin
Tuesday, January 15th, 2013
Unlike Christopher Isherwood, I am saying hello to Berlin, rather than goodbye (until tomorrow afternoon at least) as I have only just arrived in the snowy German capital for Bread&Butter, Premium and other trade fairs of quality and distinction. Despite the changes that have gone on inside Bread&Butter, the exterior of the Tempelhof airfield terminal is as impressive as ever, even in the mist of a freezing January afternoon.
Keeping it simple on the wardrobe front for my three-day jaunt, I decided to take three Viyella solid-colour shirts, three tartan ties, three pairs of warm winter trousers, one Norfolk jacket by Crowther, a down-filled parka from Woolrich and boots by Red Wing boots. In this pic, expertly taken by my son and travelling companion Teddy, the old tartan tie is from a brand called Van Buck, of which I know nothing.
I have seen Bread&Butter busier, but it’s still one of my all-time favourite fairs. Long may it run!
Yeah! M&S backs Made in GB for men
Friday, January 11th, 2013
An unexpected pleasure at the Richard James show during London Collections:Men was to bump into my old pal Tony O’Connor, head of menswear design at Marks & Spencer. Tony brought Richard in to M&S with his “Savile Row Inspired” collection. The really cheering news for autumn 2013 is that M&S is backing UK textile and clothing manufacturers with a capsule range of menswear, men’s footwear and men’s accessories that will appear in its five top stores and in its online store.
This is very much a long-term, not to say philanthropic, initiative from M&S because it cannot be making money from this initial Made in Great Britain range. Even though two-piece suits may retail for more than £600 (exact prices are yet to be set), which is way above the chain’s average cost, such a price ticket is way below what premium retailers would charge for similar garments made in GB of British cloth.
The official press launch will be in May, but The Musgrave Manifesto got a sneak preview and I was very impressed by what I saw. Cloths from excellent mills like Robert Noble, Abraham Moon and Alfred Brown, plus Harris Tweed, have been used in masculine fashion styles for suits, jackets and coats. The principal manufacturer of the tailoring is Cheshire Clothing in Crewe. I was so pleased to see a strong showing of double-breasted jackets.
I only saw a handful of garments, but the quality of make and attention to detail is very good. The footwear, mainly from Cheaney, is brilliant.
Says Tony O’Connor, who was looking the business in his DB flannel chalk stripe and merino rollneck, says: “For the development of the collection we are looking back through our rich British heritage and extensive archive and working closely with the very best home-grown fabric suppliers and manufacturers to produce a collection focused on true craftsmanship and quality.”
It’s very encouraging to see M&S setting an example for what can be achieved with British manufacturers. Other major retailers and brands, please note.
London Collections:Men Nutters x Peter Werth
Wednesday, January 9th, 2013
The historic Cafe de Paris near Piccadilly Circus, once the haunt of Edward VIII and Mrs Simpson, was turned into a Northern Soul venue for the debut show of the Nutters collaboration with Peter Werth.
The small parade of professional models in the show was upstaged by a crowd of real soul boys who showed their dramatic dance moves to classic Northern tracks like If This Is Love (I’d Rather Be Lonely) by The Precisions [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1P5JGOQdeg]
After a few solo tricks, the lads – a great-looking bunch, other casting agents please note – filled the floor for a joint display of Northern dancing.
Nutters was the label of Tommy Nutter when he was at his most influential in the early and mid-1970s, which is just about the time Peter Werth started his eponymous men’s casualwear label.
The Nutters name has been revived by David Mason, who also owns the rights to Anthony Sinclair, tailor of the early James Bond.
Looking for a partner to take Nutters to a wider ready-to-wear audience, he settled on Peter Werth, which is now owned by JD Sports. Judging by the look of the styles on the catwalk-cum-dance floor, further investigation is recommended as this looks to be a really good fashion collection.
Anyway, the show had the best-looking models (real blokes, but interesting individuals) and the best soundtrack by far of the London Collections:Men mini-week.
London Collections:Men Christopher Kane
Wednesday, January 9th, 2013
Classic horror movies are the inspiration for Christopher Kane’s latest menswear collection. Although this style is not for me, it is good to see Boris Karloff and Bela Lugosi being given a new lease of life (if that term can be applied to a vampire). The velvet slippers carrying the image of Lugosi as Dracula are particularly dandy.
I was pleased to catch up with one of my guvnors, Christian Barker, editor in chief of www.billionaire.com For the last day of the London mini-week, I was in country mode with a Norfolk jacket by Crowther, red Viyella shirt, tartan tie from Drake’s and cap from Bates.
London Collections:Men E Tautz
Wednesday, January 9th, 2013
Patrick Grant, the creative mind behind E Tautz (and Norton & Son of Savile Row), revisited his native Scotland for AW 2013. He wrote in the show’s notes: “For this collection we’ve attempted a revision on the Scottish cloth vernacular (tartan, estate tweed, argyle)… The colours are in the greyscape of Harris, the sea on a gloomy day, the heather and, of course, the rust. The wonderful Johnstons of Elgin allowed us into their cloth archive from which we designed the beautiful woollen cloths which they so masterfully wove for us.”
Also thanked in the notes were his other suppliers: Laird London, Harry’s of London, Corgi, Begg, Wendy Keith and her hand-knitters, Jill and Keith at Cozy Knit, Bower Roebuck, Saville Clifford, Vanners, Stephen Walters, Tower, Smyth & Gibson, and Rayner and Sturgess. “We remain true to our aim to source and make everything we can in the UK,” Patrick wrote. Keep up the good work, old chap.
I do like a bold oversized check.
London Collections:Men Spencer House
Tuesday, January 8th, 2013
The Gentlemen’s Houses of Savile Row, Mayfair and St. James in association with The Woolmark Company requested the pleasure of my company for an event that was styled as The English Gentleman at Spencer House. This mansion alongside Green Park, which is London’s only surviving private palace from the 18th century, proved to a superb venue for the presentation of the fine work of the capital’s pre-eminent tailors, shirtmakers, hatters, shoemakers, accessory manufacturers, perfumers and wine merchants.
More than 60 models were arranged in themed groups across seven rooms of the house. To be picky, not all the outfits were perfect fits on the models, but given that the bespoke outfits had been made for other people, the overall effect was mightily impressive. 
Congratulations must go to Anda Rowland, CEO of Anderson & Sheppard, whose idea it all was and who is credited in bringing it all together. Jo Levin of British GQ styled the presentation, ably assisted by the talented Sammy Aki, who was her usual beaming self.
Even though the low lighting in the palace was not ideal, and it was difficult to work out whose outfit was from which firm or firms, The English Gentleman at Spencer House was, for me, by far the most elegant, stylish and impressive event of the three days of London Collections:Men.
On my tour I was buttonholed (no pun intended) by tailoring legend Edward Sexton, who contributed among other items a vintage Tommy Nutter jacket he had cut nearly 40 years ago. He insisted that I photographed the label to confirm its 1974 date. Well-tailored clothes do indeed last many a long year…
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