Ladies’ night at The Golden Shears
Emily Squires, an apprentice at Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row, was awarded The Golden Shears, the top prize in the bi-annual Olympics for the younger generation of the bespoke tailoring trade, at a ceremony in the Merchant Taylors’ Hall in the City of London last night.
Some 50 young apprentices and fashion school students entered the competition this year. Their task was to design, cut and make – almost entirely by hand – an outfit to show their skills. A quintet of eminent Savile Row cutters – Richard Anderson of Richard Anderson, Alan Bennett of Davies & Son, Peter Day of Denman & Goddard, Joe Morgan of Chittleborough & Morgan, and Kathryn Sargent of Kathryn Sargent – judged the 50 entries for their technical standards and, based on their assessment, the best 25 entrants went forward to the gala fashion show at the historic hall.
The outfits were sent down a long catwalk anonymously – the programme notes gave a description of the outfit but not the name of the tailor. (This black and white suit with placement panels was by Nga Law, a female student at Nottingham Trent University).
The outfits were judged for style by a panel of celebrity judges, namely chef Raymond Blanc, actress Joanna Lumley, TV presenter Nick Hewer, fashion journalist Hilary Alexander and fashion retailer Lloyd Johnson. Their marks were integrated with those of the technical judges to arrive at the three winners.
Emily Squires’s winning outfit comprises a blue velvet frock coat with hand-quilted lining, a navy moleskin waistcoat and Tattersall jodhpurs. As well as the handsome Golden Shears trophy, she picked up a cheque for £2,000.
The Silver Shears and a cheque for £1,500 went to Jennie Mcwalter of Anderson & Sheppard for a striking ensemble of a red hunt dress coat with off-white silk facings, a backless double-breasted vest and tartan dress trousers.
The Rising Star Silver Shears went to Yan Zhang of Havering College for a very neat and precise asymmetrical jacket and skirt.
I have been to four finals of The Golden Shears over the years and I always am amazed at the amazing standard of work. Entrants that caught my eye this year included Patricia Recht of Welsh and Jeffries for this patchwork three-quarter length jacket,
Anna-Luisa Wilheim of Maurice Sedwell for this silk dinner jacket with hand-embroidered shawl lapel,
Danielle Jude of Batley School of Art for this tweed suit
and Emma Martin of Dege & Skinner for this mess-style coat and black high-waisted trousers. It was interesting to note that of the 25 finalists this year, only three were male. Women have won The Golden Shears four times in the past five contests. Bravo, ladies!
Sign up for The Musgrave Manifesto
- The Place London Men’s
- Croots England. Made in Yorkshire. Seen at Pitti Uomo 91
- Christopher Raeburn for Save The Duck at Pitti Uomo 91
- Z Zegna at Pitti Uomo 91
- Johnstons of Elgin at Pitti Uomo 91
- PS by Paul Smith at Pitti Uomo 91
- Pitti Uomo hits 91 not out