The Musgrave Manifesto
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How to put on a fashion show
Thursday, March 24th, 2016
The role of the fashion show is much discussed at present within the industry. But whether it is a marketing event or a sales exercise or an ego trip for the designer, it is unlikely to disappear anytime soon. Anyone wishing to stage a catwalk extravaganza could do worse than read my book from 2014, How To Put On A Fashion Show, which is published by Batsford at £9.99.
Among the practical tips we have sprinkled more than 250 illustrations, including a few glamorous images from celebrated shows, as illustrated here.
My former Sportswear International colleague, stylist William Gilchrist, pops up on p. 142 alongside designer Oliver Spencer. It’s always gratifying to involve pals in work like this (although I didn’t pick the pix!)
My most important tip across the 160-page book? Keep any show short and sweet!
Jigsaw’s fresh take on linen
Tuesday, March 22nd, 2016
Linen is one of my favourite fabrics so I was pleased to be commissioned to write a feature on Jigsaw’s new approach to linen for its latest Style&Truth magazine.
For part of its spring-summer range Jigsaw went to Northern Ireland-based linen specialist Baird McNutt and asked the experts to dye up three shades of fabric following the artisanal methods favoured by NYC-based artist Audrey Louise Reynolds. I can’t wait to see these special products in store.
Style&Truth is a handsome 94-page production edited by my former Drapers colleague Ana Santi. It is distributed for free through Jigsaw’s stores but not all copies have a sample of the linen affixed to the page as my version does.
Hi-tech rainwear in How To Spend It March 2016
Sunday, March 20th, 2016
The synthesis between performance fabrics and fashion is picking up pace. In the March 12 issue of How To Spend It, the Financial Times’ luxury supplement, I looked at some examples of how this theme is being seen in menswear rainwear this spring.
My linen suit from Magee 1866
Sunday, March 6th, 2016
The lightweight cloth is just under 10oz (280 grms) and features a few slubs that give it some surface interest. I am here in a John Smedley polo, my Harris Tweed cap from Fred Neiddu at Timothy Everest, suede boots from Swift & Co, a vintage silk hank and Silhouette sunglasses.
Given the relatively fancy pattern, we kept the style of the MTM suit very clean and simple, but, of course, a made-to-measure suit deserves a waistcoat (or vest, in tailoring parlance). I dressed it down here with a grey cotton shirt from Woolrich and a vintage silk cravat.
Despite the poor weather since I received the suit in November, I have given it a few run-outs and have had lots of compliments for it, including from a woman on the London Underground who wordlessly indicated the suit with a wave of her finger and gave me a thumb’s-up. The retail price of a linen three-piece made-to-measure suit from Magee 1866 is around £900. I am going to enjoy wearing this often when/if it ever stops raining.
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- The Place London Men’s
- Croots England. Made in Yorkshire. Seen at Pitti Uomo 91
- Christopher Raeburn for Save The Duck at Pitti Uomo 91
- Z Zegna at Pitti Uomo 91
- Johnstons of Elgin at Pitti Uomo 91
- PS by Paul Smith at Pitti Uomo 91
- Pitti Uomo hits 91 not out