The Musgrave Manifesto
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Tartan trews for eveningwear
Tuesday, January 26th, 2016
Made-to-measure for me by my pal Grant Mitchell at Cooper & Mackenzie in Dundee, they are cut in what’s known as Formal Argyll Styling. We did all the measurements over email. (Other options from this excellent menswear independent include Standard Waist for more relaxed occasions, Fishtail and Military styles, not to mention tartan breeks for retro-golfers).
The tartan is a Mitchell Old Colour pattern, in an 11.5oz 100% pure new wool supplied by Strathmore in Forfar. (The cloth merchant has about 400 tartan patterns on offer if you don’t like this one, which is also very close to both the Russell and Galbraith tartans).
Advised by the knowledgeable and dapper Mr Mitchell, I went for one of his leather belts and an appropriately Caledonian buckle. The made-to-measure trews cost £199, the belt and buckle £25 each.
I have given the trews several runouts at black-tie events, wearing them with my DB jacket from Gieves & Hawkes. I am pleased to be inspiring the younger generation in the ways of the plaid trousers, as seen here on my former Drapers colleague Luke Todd.
Sean O’Flynn bespoke dress shirt
Sunday, January 17th, 2016
One garment that caused me problems over recent years is the dress shirt.
I attend a lot of black-tie events – here I am with Matalan founder John Hargreaves at the Drapers Awards in November 2015 when he received his Lifetime Achievement Award – and I want to look good and feel comfortable. The problem I found was that having a big neck (17.5ins) but having a body that is not so big, I’d end up with a hugely baggy shirt, often with arms that were too long.
To sort out the issue, I went to see my friend Sean O’Flynn, one of the best-known bespoke shirtmakers in the West End. It was a good decision. We decided on a classic white cotton style with marcella front, collar and cuffs, to be closed with three shirts studs and buttons, and to be worn with cufflinks.
Sean took the required measurements, including chest, waist, neck, shoulder and arms (length and circumference). It took only a few minutes.
I have been very pleased with the result. The plain cotton and the finely textured marcella, both from the Albini mills in Italy, are very comfortable to wear. The fit, which is snug but not restrictive, is excellent. The only alteration needed was the addition of an extra button near the waistline to accommodate my middle-aged spread.
Sean O’Flynn charges about £330 for a dress shirt like this, which is a serious investment, but one that makes sense to get exactly what you want. And that is the idea of bespoke making.
Begg of Scotland colourful cashmere scarf
Saturday, January 16th, 2016
The cold snap has given me plenty of opportunity to wear my latest cashmere Wispy scarf from Begg of Scotland.
The piece includes 10 colours which means the scarf can be worn with a lot of different outfits.
Here I wear it with a lambswool sweater from Drake’s. The scarf costs around £230.
David Bowie 1947-2016
Tuesday, January 12th, 2016
Lucky are those that got to see the mammoth David Bowie retrospective at the Victoria & Albert Museum in 2013. It was an extraordinary walk-through the man’s life and career and a delight for those of us who had long admired his personal style.
The Ziggy Stardust / Kansai Yamamoto era clothes were not the sort I’d rush to wear, but the one-time jazz saxophonist from Beckenham never lost his love of smart suits, many of which were included in the show.
When in 2008-09 I was writing Sharp Suits, my history of men’s tailoring, I was struggling to find a modern hero of the suit until the penny dropped and I realised that Bowie was the perfect man. From the early 1970s until the end, he wore them well and I included an impressive quintet of his distinctive looks in the book.
It is odd to think that David Bowie has left us, just three days after his 69th birthday. What a legacy. What a back catalogue. What memories he has given us. And in this last photo, I can reveal that this is the nearest I ever got to the great man – miles away from the stage at the Milton Keynes Bowl for the Serious Moonlight tour in early July 1983. Thanks for everything, David.
Marc Bolland bows to the inevitable
Friday, January 8th, 2016
Marks & Spencer CEO Marc Bolland hung on for two years longer than I predicted. Interviewed by Jeff Randall on Sky News in July 2013, I asserted that the Dutchman would exit M&S by spring 2014.
His successor Steve Rowe, an M&S lifer of 25 years, has his work cut out. Good luck to him.
(PS Apologies for the poor quality of the clip).
Made-in-UK shoes by Swift and Co
Thursday, January 7th, 2016
Richard Swift is a man on a mission to bring footwear manufacturing back to Burnley in east Lancashire. His Swift & Co brand is using new technology to produce shoes that combine classic looks with the high level of comfort usually associated with trainers. The video on his site tells the story very well.
I met Richard – a third-generation shoe man – at the annual awards ceremony for the trade charity Footwear Friends, at which he picked up two prizes, one for innovation and one for export potential.
The main difference in the construction is the sole and footbed, which combines a EVA sole with a natural rubber footbed. There is no inner sole in the classic sense. The result is a lightweight, supportive and very comfortable base. The production methods are novel, with no nasty glues involved.
Due to the almost constant rain since Richard Swift sent me this trial pair of “Lancaster” boots just before Christmas, I have worn them only once. The lightness of the boots and the softness underfoot takes some getting used to, but I like the effect. The suede boots retail for about £165; the leather options will be slightly more expensive.
With pleasing branding and its commitment to new technology, Swift & Co is a very interesting addition to the list of Made-in-UK producers. I wish Richard and his colleagues well.
The Westbury oxford from Foster and Son
Wednesday, January 6th, 2016
I do like classic English formal shoes, so I was pleased to add to my collection a pair of Westbury oxfords from Foster & Son at 83 Jermyn Street.
Made in Northamptonshire, this classic punch cap oxford is an updated version of a style that Foster has been selling since the 1960s.
I went for an 81/2 in a F fitting but next time I will try a slightly wider last as I find this just a tad tight after a long day’s wearing. Rest assured I don’t wear the black antique calf with a brown suit, as my photos may suggest. I just happened to be wearing it when I picked up the shoes, which cost £475.
For Him on the goggle box
Tuesday, January 5th, 2016
My appearance on ITV2’s programme FHM: The Last of the Lads’ Mags on January 4 went to form. One hour of filmed interview was reduced to about 20 seconds on screen.
At least I was able to explain that in its early days as For Him (the first seasonal issue appeared in spring 1985) it was decidely a style mag – hence our opening feature was about building a classic wardrobe.
Back then, the team would have approved of the Magee 1866 linen suit and John Smedley polo shirt I wore for my appearance. Coincidentally, both brands were advertisers in those early issues 30 years ago.
The production company Hungry Bear Media also got my credit slightly wrong. As stated on screen, I was editor of For Him in 1985-1986 , during which time I edited the first three issues (Spring Summer 85, Autumn Winter 85, Spring Summer 86) but I also returned to edit the six bi-monthly issues published in 1990.
The first of those issues was the one featuring Phil Collins on the cover. This image was heavily criticised on the prog – agreed, he is no matinee idol – but the edition sold well. But sadly we didn’t get near the 150 million albums that the drummer has flogged around the world in his career.
For Him on ITV2 tonight
Monday, January 4th, 2016
Some 2015 highlights
Friday, January 1st, 2016
Well, 2015 certainly had its moments. Most of the fun was prompted by my 60th birthday on May 23, but six days before that, on Sunday May 17, I completed a 10km run round Regent’s Park in London in aid of Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust, the trade charity of which I am a patron. If that wasn’t mad enough, I did it dressed as Superman.
Supported and encouraged by four colleagues at Emap – Hannah Burnel, Lizzie Fuller, Victoria Hart and Rosie Birchenough – I got round without undue strain in just under an hour. Thanks to the amazing generosity of friends from the fashion industy, our efforts raised about £13,000 for FTCT. Thanks again to all who contributed. As you can see below, the reality of our Superhero outfits almost precisely mirrored the earlier artists’ impression above. Thank you girls, you were all brilliant.
A few days later Emap colleagues Jessica Brown and Keely Stocker, ably assisted by Victoria Hart and my wife Jane, sprung a wonderful surprise on me on Wednesday May 20 with a lavish party attended by about 80 current and former workmates plus a gang of friends from the fashion business. I knew something had been organised, but I thought it was going to be a few drinks in a pub.
The cast of thousands had clubbed together for a fabulous birthday fund that paid for a cake, a wonderful Mulberry holdall, a superb Graf von Faber-Castell fountain pen and inks, a cashmere scarf from Begg, a brilliant 4ft x 5ft oil painting of me by Jacqui Phillips, and a life-size cut-out of me as Superman (looking in slightly better shape than in real life. It was a most fabulous evening, joyous and somewhat humbling at the same time. Thank you all, but especially to Jessica and Keely for weeks of hard work.
On the big day itself I played my usual Saturday footie game at the University of Kent, but forsook my regular defending role to play upfront. I fulfilled a 60th birthday ambition by scoring a rare goal and making two assists, which set me up for a lovely day of celebrating with the family and a few friends. Due to the May Bank Holiday falling on May 23, I delayed my main party until the end of June.
Before that, however, on the weekend of June 13-14 my wife Jane treated me to the hire of this 1965 Ford Mustang. What a dream come true! With Jimmy the lurcher on the back seat, we cruised around Dorset and Devon. We had the hood down virtually all the time. This pic was taken on Exmoor. I can thoroughly recommend Thunder Road Classics if you want to hire a vintage muscle car like this.
And to finish things off, in recognition of my efforts turning round the fortunes of Drapers, on the evening of July 9 I was named Business Media Editor of the Year by the PPA, the trade body for media publishers. I was very pleased that through me all the hard work of my pals at Drapers had been recognised. Personally, I was extremely proud and pleased to add this accolade to the one I’d gained 12 years earlier from the PPA after creating the modern Drapers.
What a great year 2015 was. I must turn 60 more often.
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